What Materials Did Vikings Use For Clothing

Vikings, the Norse seafarers and warriors who originated from Scandinavia, are often depicted in popular culture wearing horned helmets and rugged attire. While the horned helmet is a misconception, their clothing was indeed practical and well-suited to their environment and way of life. The materials Vikings used for clothing were dictated by availability, climate, and social status, and understanding these materials offers insight into their daily lives and resourcefulness.

The Foundation: Wool

Wool was undoubtedly the most prevalent and essential material for Viking clothing. Sheep were widely raised in Scandinavia, making wool readily accessible. The qualities of wool made it ideal for the harsh Scandinavian climate:

• Warmth: Wool fibers naturally trap air, providing excellent insulation against the cold.
• Water Resistance: Wool contains lanolin, a natural wax that repels water, keeping the wearer dry in damp conditions.
• Durability: Wool is a strong fiber, capable of withstanding wear and tear from daily activities.
• Versatility: Wool could be spun into various thicknesses of yarn, allowing for different types of clothing from lightweight undergarments to heavy outer layers.

Archaeological evidence, such as textile fragments found in Viking burial sites, confirms the widespread use of wool. Different types of wool cloth were produced, ranging from coarse, undyed vadmal (a thick, felted wool fabric used for sails and outerwear) to finer, dyed wools for garments worn by wealthier individuals.

Linen: The Comfort Layer

While wool provided warmth and protection, linen offered comfort and breathability. Flax, the plant from which linen is derived, was cultivated in Scandinavia, although perhaps not as extensively as sheep farming. Linen was used primarily for undergarments and lighter clothing due to its properties:

• Breathability: Linen fibers allow air to circulate, keeping the wearer cool in warmer weather or during physical activity.
• Absorbency: Linen can absorb moisture without feeling damp, making it comfortable to wear against the skin.
• Smoothness: Linen fibers are smooth, reducing friction and irritation against the skin, which was particularly important when wearing wool outer layers.

Linen undergarments, such as shirts and drawers, would have been worn next to the skin to provide a comfortable layer between the wearer and the coarser wool clothing. Linen was also used for head coverings, such as caps and veils, particularly by women. The cultivation of flax and the processing of linen fibers were labor-intensive, making linen garments more valuable than those made of wool.

The Rare Luxury: Silk

Silk was a rare and expensive material in the Viking Age, obtained primarily through trade with the East. Silk fragments have been found in Viking burial sites, indicating that it was used, albeit sparingly, by the elite members of society. Silk was prized for its:

• Softness: Silk fibers are exceptionally smooth and delicate, providing a luxurious feel against the skin.
• Luster: Silk has a natural sheen that reflects light, giving it a beautiful and eye-catching appearance.
• Lightweight: Silk is a strong yet lightweight fabric, making it comfortable to wear in layers.

Silk was not typically used for entire garments but rather as decorative trim, linings, or embellishments on clothing made of wool or linen. Silk threads were also used for embroidery, adding intricate designs and patterns to garments. The presence of silk in Viking graves is a testament to the wealth and status of the deceased.

Animal Skins and Furs: Protection from the Elements

In addition to woven fabrics, animal skins and furs played a crucial role in Viking clothing, particularly for outerwear and protection against the harsh elements. Animals hunted for their skins and furs included:

• Deer: Deer hides were used for leather clothing, such as jackets and trousers, providing durable and water-resistant protection.
• Fox: Fox fur was used for trimming garments, lining hoods, and making hats and mittens, offering warmth and insulation.
• Bear: Bearskins were highly prized for their warmth and symbolic value, often worn by warriors as a sign of strength and ferocity.
• Beaver: Beaver pelts were valuable trade items and were used for making warm and water-resistant hats and coats.
• Sheepskin: Sheepskin, with the wool still attached, was used for making warm and comfortable cloaks and blankets.

Animal skins were processed using various techniques, including tanning and smoking, to preserve them and make them pliable. Fur garments were often layered over wool or linen clothing to provide extra insulation in extremely cold weather.

Plant-Based Materials: Beyond Linen

While linen was the primary plant-based textile, other plant materials were also used in Viking clothing and accessories:

• Nettle: Nettle fibers, similar to flax, could be spun into a coarse yarn and woven into fabric. Nettle cloth was likely used for utilitarian purposes, such as sacks and bags.
• Hemp: Hemp fibers were used for making rope, sails, and possibly coarse clothing.
• Bark: Bark fibers, such as birch bark, were used for making shoes, hats, and other accessories.

These plant-based materials provided alternatives to wool and linen, particularly for items that required strength and durability.

Dyes and Decoration: Adding Color and Identity

Viking clothing was not simply functional; it was also a means of expressing identity and status. Dyes were used to add color and decoration to garments, and various techniques were employed to create intricate patterns and designs. Common dye sources included:

• Plants: Woad (blue), madder (red), weld (yellow), and various other plants were used to produce a range of colors.
• Lichens: Lichens could be used to create dyes in shades of brown, orange, and purple.
• Insects: Kermes, an insect found on oak trees, was used to produce a vibrant red dye.

Dyeing techniques varied, but typically involved soaking the fabric in a dye bath for an extended period. Mordants, such as alum or iron, were used to fix the dye to the fabric and prevent it from fading.

Decoration was added to Viking clothing through various methods:

• Embroidery: Embroidery was used to create intricate designs and patterns on garments, often using silk or wool threads.
• Tablet Weaving: Tablet weaving was used to create narrow bands of fabric with complex geometric patterns, which were used to trim edges and decorate clothing.
• Appliqué: Appliqué involved sewing pieces of fabric onto a larger piece of fabric to create a design.
• Metalwork: Metal ornaments, such as brooches, buckles, and pendants, were used to fasten and decorate clothing.

The colors and decorations used on Viking clothing could indicate a person's social status, regional affiliation, or clan membership.

Garment Types: Function and Fashion

The types of garments worn by Vikings varied depending on their gender, social status, and the occasion. However, some common garments included:

• Tunic: The tunic was a basic garment worn by both men and women, typically made of wool or linen. Tunics were long-sleeved and reached to the knees or ankles.
• Trousers: Trousers were worn by men, typically made of wool or leather. Trousers could be loose-fitting or close-fitting, and were often worn with leggings or hose.
• Dresses: Women wore dresses, typically made of wool or linen. Dresses could be one-piece or two-piece, and were often worn with an apron or overdress.
• Aprons: Aprons were worn by women over their dresses, typically made of wool or linen. Aprons provided protection and could also be decorative.
• Cloaks: Cloaks were worn by both men and women for warmth and protection from the elements. Cloaks were typically made of wool or animal skins, and were fastened with a brooch.
• Hats and Head coverings: Hats and head coverings were worn for warmth and protection from the sun. Men wore caps, helmets, and fur hats, while women wore veils, scarves, and caps.
• Shoes and Boots: Shoes and boots were made of leather, and were typically simple in design. Shoes were often made from a single piece of leather, while boots were made from multiple pieces.

The cut and style of Viking clothing were relatively simple, but the quality of the materials, the dyes used, and the decorations added could indicate a person's social status and wealth.

Clothing and Social Status

Clothing in the Viking Age was a clear indicator of social status. The wealthy could afford finer materials, more elaborate decorations, and more garments overall. The poor, on the other hand, had to make do with coarser materials, simpler designs, and fewer items of clothing.

• Wealthy Individuals: Wealthy Vikings could afford garments made of fine wool, linen, and even silk. They could also afford to have their clothing dyed in vibrant colors and decorated with embroidery, tablet weaving, and metalwork. They likely owned multiple sets of clothing for different occasions.
• Middle Class: Middle-class Vikings, such as farmers and craftsmen, wore clothing made of good-quality wool and linen. They could afford some dyed garments and simple decorations. They likely owned a few sets of clothing for everyday wear and special occasions.
• Poor Individuals: Poor Vikings, such as slaves and laborers, wore clothing made of coarse wool and undyed linen. Their clothing was likely patched and worn, and they owned very few items.

The differences in clothing between social classes were not just about aesthetics; they also reflected the differences in their lifestyles. Wealthy individuals had more leisure time and could afford to maintain their clothing in good condition. Poor individuals, on the other hand, worked long hours in harsh conditions, which took a toll on their clothing.

The Practicality of Viking Clothing

Ultimately, Viking clothing was designed for practicality and functionality. The materials used were chosen for their warmth, durability, and water resistance. The garments were designed to be comfortable and easy to move in, allowing Vikings to perform their daily tasks, whether farming, fishing, trading, or fighting.

The layering system employed by Vikings allowed them to adapt to changing weather conditions. They could add or remove layers of clothing as needed to stay warm and dry. The use of animal skins and furs provided extra insulation in extremely cold weather.

Viking clothing was also designed to be versatile. A single garment could be worn for multiple purposes. For example, a cloak could be used as a blanket at night, or a tunic could be worn as an undergarment or an outer garment.

What Can We Learn from Viking Clothes?

The study of Viking clothing provides valuable insights into their culture, economy, and daily lives. By examining the materials they used, the techniques they employed, and the styles they wore, we can learn about their resourcefulness, their social structure, and their connection to the natural world.

Viking clothing demonstrates their ability to adapt to a challenging environment. They made the most of the resources available to them, using wool, linen, animal skins, and other materials to create clothing that was both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Their clothing also reflects their social values. The differences in clothing between social classes highlight the importance of status and wealth in Viking society.

Finally, the study of Viking clothing reminds us of the importance of sustainability. The Vikings used natural materials that were renewable and biodegradable. They also repaired and reused their clothing, extending its lifespan. In a world facing environmental challenges, we can learn from the Vikings' example and adopt more sustainable practices in our own lives.

Conclusion

The materials used by Vikings for clothing reveal a great deal about their lives and the world they inhabited. From the ubiquitous wool that provided warmth and durability to the rare and luxurious silk that signified wealth and status, each material tells a story. Their resourcefulness in utilizing available materials like linen, animal skins, and even nettle fibers demonstrates their close relationship with the natural environment. The dyes and decorations added to garments not only provided aesthetic appeal but also served as markers of identity and social standing. By studying Viking clothing, we gain a deeper understanding of their practical needs, social structures, and the ingenuity that allowed them to thrive in a challenging environment.