Ocean World How To Add Dirt Back

The allure of creating a thriving planted aquarium, often called an "ocean world" due to its self-contained ecosystem, lies in the delicate balance of nature. One of the fundamental elements in achieving this balance is the substrate, the foundation upon which your aquatic plants will root and flourish. While inert substrates like gravel or sand have their place, the use of soil, often referred to as "dirt," offers a unique advantage by providing essential nutrients that promote robust plant growth. However, the process of introducing soil into an aquarium, often referred to as “adding dirt back” or creating a “dirted tank,” requires careful consideration and execution to avoid common pitfalls like clouding, ammonia spikes, and algae blooms.

Understanding the Benefits of a Dirted Aquarium

Before diving into the "how-to," it's crucial to understand why aquarists choose to incorporate soil into their aquarium setups. The primary benefit is the readily available source of nutrients for plants. Soil naturally contains macronutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as micronutrients like iron, manganese, and boron. These nutrients are vital for plant growth, enabling them to develop strong roots, lush foliage, and vibrant colors.

Beyond nutrient provision, soil also acts as a natural buffer, helping to maintain stable water parameters. It has the capacity to absorb excess nutrients and release them gradually as needed, creating a more balanced environment for plants and fish. The organic matter in the soil also contributes to the development of beneficial bacteria, which play a crucial role in the nitrogen cycle, converting harmful ammonia and nitrites into less toxic nitrates.

Selecting the Right Soil

Not all soil is created equal. Choosing the right type of soil is paramount to the success of your dirted aquarium. Here's a breakdown of factors to consider:

• Organic Soil: Opt for organic soil that is free from artificial fertilizers, pesticides, and herbicides. These additives can leach into the water column and harm aquatic life. Look for soils specifically labeled for organic gardening or potting.
• Topsoil vs. Potting Soil: Topsoil, the uppermost layer of soil, is often a good choice as it contains a diverse range of microorganisms and organic matter. Potting soil, while convenient, can sometimes contain additives that are not suitable for aquariums. Always check the ingredients list carefully.
• Mineralized Topsoil (MTS): This involves pre-treating topsoil through a process of flooding and draining to remove excess ammonia and other unwanted compounds. This can significantly reduce the risk of ammonia spikes in the initial setup.
• Avoid Soils with Additives: Steer clear of soils that contain vermiculite, perlite, or fertilizer pellets. These additives can float to the surface, cloud the water, and release excessive nutrients.
• Clay Content: A certain amount of clay in the soil is beneficial as it helps to retain nutrients and prevent them from leaching out too quickly. However, excessive clay can make the soil dense and compact, hindering root growth.
• Consider Laterite: Laterite is a clay-rich soil that is naturally high in iron. Adding a small amount of laterite to your soil mix can be particularly beneficial for plants that require high levels of iron, such as Echinodorus species (Amazon Swords).

A Step-by-Step Guide to Adding Dirt Back to Your Aquarium

Adding dirt to an aquarium is a multi-stage process that requires patience and attention to detail. Here's a step-by-step guide to ensure a successful setup:

1. Planning and Preparation:

• Tank Size: Determine the appropriate amount of soil based on the size of your aquarium. A general guideline is to use about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of soil for smaller tanks (10-20 gallons) and up to 2 inches (5 cm) for larger tanks (30+ gallons).
• Soil Preparation (Mineralization): If you're using topsoil, consider mineralizing it beforehand to reduce the risk of ammonia spikes. This involves the following steps:
  • Sieving: Remove any large debris, rocks, or twigs from the soil.
  • Soaking: Place the soil in a bucket and cover it with water. Stir the soil thoroughly and let it sit for 1-2 days.
  • Draining: Drain the water and repeat the soaking and draining process several times over the course of a week or two. This will help to leach out excess ammonia and other unwanted compounds.
  • Drying: Spread the soil out on a tarp or in a shallow container and allow it to dry completely in the sun. This will help to oxidize any remaining organic matter.
• Gathering Materials:
  • Organic soil (topsoil or mineralized topsoil)
  • Capping substrate (sand, gravel, or aquasoil)
  • Filter media from an established aquarium (optional, to jumpstart the nitrogen cycle)
  • Water conditioner
  • Dechlorinator
  • Heater
  • Filter
  • Lights
  • Plants
  • Hardscape (rocks, driftwood)

2. Setting Up the Tank:

• Cleaning: Thoroughly clean your aquarium with water only. Avoid using soap or detergents, as they can be harmful to aquatic life.
• Hardscape Placement: Arrange your hardscape (rocks, driftwood) on the bottom of the tank before adding the soil. This will help to create a visually appealing and functional aquascape.
• Soil Layer: Carefully spread the prepared soil evenly across the bottom of the tank. Aim for a consistent layer thickness, typically 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm).
• Capping Layer: This is the most crucial step. Carefully place a layer of capping substrate (sand, gravel, or aquasoil) over the soil layer. The capping layer serves several important functions:
  • Prevents Clouding: It physically separates the soil from the water column, preventing it from clouding the water.
  • Reduces Nutrient Leaching: It slows down the rate at which nutrients leach from the soil into the water column, preventing algae blooms.
  • Provides Root Anchorage: It provides a stable substrate for plant roots to anchor themselves.
  • Aesthetics: It provides a more aesthetically pleasing surface than bare soil.
• Capping Substrate Depth: The depth of the capping substrate should be at least 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm). A thicker capping layer is generally better, especially if you are using a nutrient-rich soil.
• Gentle Filling: Place a plate or bowl on top of the substrate and slowly pour water onto the plate to avoid disturbing the substrate layers. Fill the tank about halfway.
• Planting: Carefully plant your aquatic plants. Use tweezers to gently insert the roots into the substrate.
• Final Filling: Slowly fill the tank to the desired water level.
• Equipment Installation: Install your heater, filter, and lights.
• Water Conditioning: Add water conditioner and dechlorinator to remove chlorine and chloramine from the tap water.

3. Cycling the Tank:

• The Nitrogen Cycle: The nitrogen cycle is the process by which beneficial bacteria convert harmful ammonia and nitrites into less toxic nitrates. This process is essential for a healthy aquarium.
• Fishless Cycling: It's highly recommended to cycle the tank without fish to avoid exposing them to harmful levels of ammonia and nitrites.
• Ammonia Source: Add an ammonia source to the tank, such as pure ammonia or fish food.
• Testing Water Parameters: Regularly test the water for ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates using a liquid test kit.
• Cycling Completion: The tank is considered cycled when ammonia and nitrites consistently read 0 ppm, and nitrates are present. This typically takes 4-8 weeks.
• Seeding with Established Media: To speed up the cycling process, you can add filter media from an established aquarium. This will introduce beneficial bacteria to the new tank.

4. Introducing Livestock:

• Gradual Introduction: Once the tank is fully cycled, you can gradually introduce livestock. Start with a small number of hardy fish and observe them closely for any signs of stress.
• Quarantine: It's always a good idea to quarantine new fish in a separate tank for a few weeks before introducing them to the main tank. This will help to prevent the spread of diseases.

5. Maintenance:

• Water Changes: Perform regular water changes (25-50%) every 1-2 weeks to remove excess nitrates and replenish essential minerals.
• Vacuuming: Gently vacuum the substrate during water changes to remove debris and prevent the buildup of anaerobic zones. Be careful not to disturb the soil layer.
• Fertilization: While the soil provides a good initial source of nutrients, you may need to supplement with liquid fertilizers over time, especially for demanding plants.
• Pruning: Regularly prune your plants to maintain their shape and prevent them from blocking light.
• Algae Control: Monitor the tank for algae growth and take steps to control it if necessary. This may involve adjusting lighting, reducing nutrient levels, or introducing algae-eating fish or invertebrates.

Addressing Common Issues

Despite careful planning, several issues can arise when setting up a dirted aquarium. Here's how to address some common problems:

• Cloudy Water: Cloudy water is often caused by fine soil particles suspended in the water column. This can be minimized by using a good capping substrate and avoiding disturbing the substrate during water changes. If cloudiness persists, perform more frequent water changes and consider adding a mechanical filter to remove the particles.
• Ammonia Spikes: Ammonia spikes can occur if the soil is not properly mineralized or if there is too much organic matter in the soil. Monitor the water parameters closely and perform water changes as needed to keep ammonia levels under control. Adding ammonia-absorbing products like Seachem Prime can also help.
• Algae Blooms: Algae blooms are often caused by excessive nutrients in the water column. This can be minimized by using a good capping substrate, performing regular water changes, and adjusting lighting. Introducing algae-eating fish or invertebrates, such as snails or shrimp, can also help to control algae growth.
• Anaerobic Zones: Anaerobic zones are areas in the substrate where oxygen is depleted. This can lead to the production of harmful gases like hydrogen sulfide, which can be toxic to aquatic life. To prevent anaerobic zones, use a well-aerated substrate and avoid compacting the soil too much. Malaysian Trumpet Snails (MTS) are also beneficial as they burrow through the substrate and help to aerate it.
• pH Fluctuations: Soil can affect the pH of the water. Monitor the pH regularly and adjust it as needed using pH buffers.
• Plant Deficiencies: Even with a nutrient-rich substrate, plants may still develop deficiencies over time. Supplement with liquid fertilizers to provide the necessary nutrients.

Scientific Explanation

The success of a dirted aquarium relies on several scientific principles:

• Nutrient Cycling: Soil provides a reservoir of nutrients that plants can access through their roots. The organic matter in the soil is broken down by microorganisms, releasing nutrients in a form that plants can readily absorb.
• Nitrogen Cycle: The nitrogen cycle is essential for converting harmful ammonia and nitrites into less toxic nitrates. Beneficial bacteria colonize the substrate, filter media, and plant surfaces, carrying out this crucial process.
• Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC): Soil has a high CEC, meaning it can hold onto positively charged ions (cations), such as ammonium, potassium, and calcium. This prevents these nutrients from leaching out of the soil too quickly and makes them available to plants.
• Buffering Capacity: Soil can act as a buffer, helping to maintain stable water parameters. It can absorb excess nutrients and release them gradually as needed, preventing drastic fluctuations in pH and other parameters.
• Microbial Activity: Soil is teeming with microorganisms that play a vital role in nutrient cycling, decomposition, and overall ecosystem health. These microorganisms break down organic matter, release nutrients, and help to control the growth of harmful pathogens.

Conclusion

Adding dirt back to an aquarium, creating a "dirted tank" or "ocean world," offers a natural and effective way to provide essential nutrients for aquatic plants, promoting healthy growth and vibrant colors. By carefully selecting the right soil, preparing it properly, and following the steps outlined in this guide, you can create a thriving planted aquarium that is both beautiful and sustainable. While there may be challenges along the way, the rewards of a lush, healthy planted tank are well worth the effort. Remember to be patient, monitor your water parameters closely, and adjust your approach as needed. With careful planning and attention to detail, you can create a stunning underwater landscape that will bring joy for years to come. The keys are understanding the science behind the process, diligently preparing the substrate, and maintaining a balanced ecosystem.